Sunday 29 March 2020

ISTANBUL TRAVEL GUIDE




Bridging two continents, Istanbul is a thriving, bustling and beautiful city. The call to prayer echoes across the cobbled streets, as the street vendors jostle to open their stalls before the tourists flock to the city centre, where a grand palace or ancient mosque can be found on every street corner. 

I was so desperate to see as much as possible during my recent 3 day December trip to Istanbul; we walked an average of 25,000 steps each day. With this three day itinerary, join me in exploring the highlights of diverse and intoxicating Istanbul! 

Day 1...
I'd recommend starting your day at Sultanhammet, Istanbul's historic quarter. The area is home to most of the tourist hotspots, including the famous Blue Mosque, the beautiful Hagia Sofia, Topkapi Palace and the Grand Bazaar. 

Our AirBnb was nestled in the heart of Beyoğlu, an arts district on the European side of Istanbul. Before our trip, we had read about the benefits of investing in the inexpensive 'Istanbulkart' travel card but we decided to experience the city by foot. In less than 45 minutes, after crossing the Galata bridge and weaving through the narrow cobbled streets, we arrived at the square at about 9.30am. I'd highly recommend heading here early on at least one morning of your trip, to avoid the busy rush and to truly appreciate the square in all its' beauty. 




We visited inside the Hagia Sofia, the former Greek Orthodox Christian cathedral, later an Ottoman imperial mosque and now a museum. Tickets were 60 TL (Turkish Lira) to buy on the day (approximately £7) but there are many street vendors dotted around the city, to buy inclusive tourist sightseeing package tours from. Don't forget to dress modestly and to bring a pashmina to cover your head when visiting inside the mosques (although, there are some garments to borrow for free if you do forget!)




From the Sultanahmet Square we walked to explore the hidden treasures of the Grand Bazaar, the beating heart of the city's trade. Inside the colourful and chaotic labyrinth of shops and stalls, you can buy everything from textiles to colourful lanterns and spices. There are more than three thousand shops in the Grand Bazaar. Over the centuries, it has grown in size and has evolved with the changes of Turkish society. 



To finish off our first day of exploring, we stumbled across the Suleymaniye Mosque, an Ottoman imperial mosque located on the third hill of Istanbul. It's not as crowded as the Hagia Sofia or the Blue Mosque but just as magnificent and well-worth a visit during your trip. 


In the evening, we decided to stay local to the Airbnb and explored 

İstiklal Avenue, home to the infamous Taksim Tunel tram and retail heaven. 




Day 2...
For our second day in the historic city where east meets west, we opted for a day of 'local' experiences, well away from the tourist crowds. We walked to the traditional Jewish quarter of Balat in the Fatih district of Istanbul and fell in love with the narrow cobbled streets and colourful houses, where vibrant cafes and cutting-edge galleries sit next to old neighbourhood grocers. 

We decided to stop for a traditional Turkish breakfast in an intriguing tree house cafe in the neighbourhood, Incir Agaci Kahvesi. While lots of tourists stopped to take photos of the colourful rainbow steps outside the cafe, local residents were exchanging gifts ahead of New Year's Eve over breakfast inside the cafe. It was the kind of authentic local experience we had hoped to stumble across during our trip! 







After exploring Balat, we headed back to our neighbourhood district of Beyoğlu in the hope of visiting the infamous Galata tower. Lesson learned; do not visit the tower in the afternoon or evening! It was incredibly busy and the queue stretched down one of the cobbled streets further than the eye could see. Instead, we decided to stop for a traditional Turkish tea (çay) and try our luck again on the final day. 


As dusk settled on the bustling Istanbul skyline, we opted for the trendy harbour-side area of Karaköy; a place where cafes and late-night cocktail bars mix with traditional neighbourhood bakeries and family-run shops; where Ottoman-era buildings splashed with street art house the studios and boutiques of young creatives and urban professionals, in the centre of Istanbul's contemporary art scene. It is here where you will find one of Istanbul's infamous "Umbrella Streets" (type into Google Maps: Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi Necatibey Caddesi, Hoca Tahsin Sk. no:14c, 34425 Beyoğlu, Turkey) 




Day 3...
For our final day of exploring in Istanbul, we stopped for (yet another) traditional Turkish breakfast in the trendy cafe of Insta Karaköy. It was 40 TL per person (about £5)  for a feast for two (pictured below) and unlimited Turkish tea. 


We took a gamble by leaving two major tourist attractions to tick off on our last day but arriving early to Topkapi Palace (about 9.30am) made all the difference. Now a large museum in the east of the Fatih district, Topkapi Palace served as the main residence and administrative headquarters of the Ottoman sultans in the 15th and 16th centuries. Inside the sprawling compound, you will find palaces, grand halls, fountains and exhibitions of old Ottoman armour and other glistening trinkets. Stop for a quick tea or a bite to eat at the Topkapi Palace Cafe, with impressive views over the grounds. 


Next, we tried our luck again and walked to the Galata tower. Today's queue seemed more bearable so we braved the cold and waited in line. Entry to the tower was 35 TL (just under £5) per person. Once safely inside from the cold, you must travel 7 floors up (5 floors using the lift and 2 floors by stair case) for panoramic views of the entire city. It was absolutely breathtaking to take in the entire Istanbul skyline and to spot (from a considerable distance!), all the places we had walked and visited over the past three days. 






A transcontinental city, Istanbul is doubtlessly one of the greatest cities in the world. It is rich in cultural heritage and diverse experiences; where east meets west and where old meets new. 

Antonia x 




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